Nutrient burn is one of the most common — and most avoidable — problems in fertigated growing. It shows up as crispy, browning leaf tips, and it’s your plants telling you they’re getting fed too hard. Whether you grow cannabis, greenhouse vegetables, or anything on a nutrient program, here’s how to spot nutrient burn, fix it fast, and keep it from coming back.
What Is Nutrient Burn?
Nutrient burn (or “nute burn”) is damage caused by too high a concentration of nutrient salts in the root zone. When the solution is stronger than the plant can use, salts accumulate and scorch the tissue — starting at the leaf tips, where the plant transpires most. It’s essentially over-fertilization, and it stunts growth and hurts quality if left unchecked.
How to Spot Nutrient Burn
The classic signs, roughly in order of severity:
- Yellow, then brown, crispy leaf tips — the hallmark symptom.
- Burnt margins creeping inward from the tip along the leaf edge.
- Dark green, “clawed” or curled-down leaves — often a sign of nitrogen excess.
- Tips that look almost bleached or rusty in heavier cases.
Nutrient burn starts at the tips and moves inward — that pattern is what separates it from a deficiency (which usually starts as discoloration across or between the veins). Penn State Extension’s overview of nutrient function, deficiency, and excess is a useful reference for telling them apart.

What Causes It
| Cause | What’s happening |
|---|---|
| Feed too strong | Running the feed chart at full strength when your plants want less |
| Base-water EC ignored | Dissolved solids in your source water stack on top of what you add |
| Additive stacking | Piling on boosters and supplements pushes total EC too high |
| Salt buildup | Not enough runoff, so salts accumulate in the medium over time |
| Hot root zone | Warm conditions concentrate the solution and stress roots |
How to Fix Nutrient Burn
- Flush the medium. Run plenty of clean, pH’d water — ideally reverse osmosis — through the pots to wash out excess salts.
- Cut your feed strength. Drop back to a lighter dose and check your EC against the target for the stage.
- Verify pH. Confirm your water pH is in range so the plant can recover and take up nutrients cleanly.
- Wait and watch. Damaged tips won’t heal, but new growth should come in clean once the root zone is back in balance.
How to Prevent It
- Start low. Begin at 50–75% of your feed chart and work up while watching the plants.
- Measure everything. Check finished-mix EC and read runoff EC — runoff higher than input means salts are building up. Michigan State Extension’s guide to pH and plant nutrition is a good reference.
- Start with clean water. A low-EC base makes your feed predictable.
- Feed consistently. Swings between too-hot and too-light stress plants; precise, repeatable dosing keeps EC steady.
Burn vs. Lockout vs. Deficiency
Three problems get confused constantly. Nutrient burn is too much — crispy tips from excess salts. Lockout is nutrients present but unavailable, usually from pH being out of range. Deficiency is genuinely too little of a nutrient. The fixes differ, so diagnose before you react: burn calls for a flush and lighter feed, lockout calls for a pH correction, and deficiency calls for more of the missing element.
Nutrient Burn FAQ
Will nutrient-burned leaves recover?
What EC causes nutrient burn?
Is nutrient burn only a cannabis problem?
The Best Fix Is Prevention
Nutrient burn almost always traces back to inconsistent or overly strong feeding. Precise, automated dosing removes the guesswork — the Paragon delivers your recipe to the milliliter across every zone, so EC stays exactly where you want it. That consistency is the foundation of reliable commercial fertigation. Reach out and we’ll help you dial it in.




